6 seconds

It all started when my father handed me a bright orange belly board as we stood on the sands of Sea Bright Beach. Within 2 minutes, I felt the sheer terror of resting precariously at the tip of a crashing wave with the nose pointed down and the wave rushing up, the next 6 seconds of my life were indelibly etched into my psyche, as every emotion known to exist raced through my puny brain. As I twitched on the sands in mental overload, only one fact remained in the crushed world of my youth, I wanted another ride.....

How was your first?

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